tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-110328732024-03-07T18:33:11.506+00:00Laugh Loud and Often"I would never tell you anything that was not in your best interest." ~Babylon 5Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.comBlogger190125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-26033338930729309582008-01-05T06:50:00.000+00:002008-01-05T14:49:25.349+00:00Volunteer LifeThis article was first publised in the in-country publication <u>PeaceWorks/Summer '07</u> edition ...<br /><br /><ul><b><i>Essential Ingredients of Volunteer Life, One PCV’s Perspective</i></b><br />Nam LaMore, Khemisset/SBD ‘05<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRrQcla1Z0MR2m8c87Vfmbr-L9yUcT9M9DVMZe4yB-TnFU7FNoGP3UWcUfHpJjXOxK2YSFFx9eu31i_SJQf0auQFCw26rG6fFi2Sj2m8MChhlQLGWiWvO3p0KYWUhbnAcl3QTm/s1600-h/NL-kech.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5151998242821076482" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Nam LaMore in Morocco, 2007" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRrQcla1Z0MR2m8c87Vfmbr-L9yUcT9M9DVMZe4yB-TnFU7FNoGP3UWcUfHpJjXOxK2YSFFx9eu31i_SJQf0auQFCw26rG6fFi2Sj2m8MChhlQLGWiWvO3p0KYWUhbnAcl3QTm/s400/NL-kech.JPG" border="0" /></a>With more than 675 days of in-country Service, PCVs, ranging from recently sworn-in to those in my group, have asked what general and specific factors have contributed to my Volunteer Life. I applied to the Peace Corps with full knowledge that I was voluntarily stepping out of my comfort zone. Every adventure comes with some discomforts. I was prepared for lack of running water, electricity, fluffy down comforters, 300-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets and life’s other comforts and familiarities. I did not need to leave my home, friends and family in California for 27 months to look for a vacation or an easy experience. And the Peace Corps never promised me such an experience.<br /><br />I joined the Peace Corps to be a Volunteer so that I could contribute to development efforts. The Peace Corps is delivering just that: an opportunity to contribute to development efforts within my assigned community of site, and an experience to last a lifetime. Everyone’s Volunteer Life experience is different; however, here is a simple, personal blueprint that has helped me with my Service ...<br /><br /><ul><b>Manage Expectations & Personal Accountability.</b><br />One of my life-skills – transferred from Corporate America to Peace Corps – is to manage expectations, my own as well as those around me. For example, before coming to Morocco we were asked to write an Aspiration Statement that included our Expectations, Strategies for Adapting to a New Culture and Professional & Personal Goals. I suspected this exercise was to gage our commitment and maturity as we prepared to live in another culture. During my homestay period, I taped a copy of my Aspiration Statement to the wall, and made a point to review it whenever I faced <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjit75f18XU9NE1SASNFY6Y6_7B0utz14WCEFbelU8H7LGiOdLyKYa_s00cKoC2oP1QXuTUIr8ic37RaYYbvnrlyJEO9j0s2TduspsVPdHW0klwbO5eXWLkT9FA4f3UehP4Kw8C/s1600-h/nl-amina.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152000600758122002" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Nam LaMore with artisan Amina at a Zagora craft-fair, 2007" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjit75f18XU9NE1SASNFY6Y6_7B0utz14WCEFbelU8H7LGiOdLyKYa_s00cKoC2oP1QXuTUIr8ic37RaYYbvnrlyJEO9j0s2TduspsVPdHW0klwbO5eXWLkT9FA4f3UehP4Kw8C/s320/nl-amina.jpg" border="0" /></a>cultural challenges. I expected that my Service would be to meet the needs and goals of community-based, not team-oriented, development efforts. More than once I thought about revising my Aspiration Statement, but decided that was not necessary as my experience matched my own expectations.<br /><br /><b>Mutual Respect & Open, Flexible Communications. </b><br />I established mutual respect, and open, flexible communication channels with Staff, other Volunteers and Host-Country Nationals early in my Service. I tried to learn how they like to be contacted; some people prefer to talk on the phone instead of, say, email or text messaging – for these phone-yakking communicators, I simply text them to call me – there’s no shame in admitting that I am low on phone credit.<br /><br /><b>Get Involved & Stay Involved. </b><br />My first priority is to my sector, SBD. My Program Staff – Bouchra & Tariq – seem to remind me of this at every opportunity. It’s a good thing, as I often ask to get involved in non-SBD activities, such as sector-neutral VSN, YD’s Spring/Summer Language Camps, site development, trainings, etc. They like that I want to get involved, and I often remind them how my involvement will fit in with my primary <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimfaT1F6SQIUJDtbtTNoFkL2ihXThqhUO-w3L86va0wHi-RPTcLFe-dAYrXSXdOFr1MShIdd6pEQd7yyK3hFtggQIFJfYAEAxE3iveMy7GkeWKIlS8C2hTRBHZphzkxH4mULY8/s1600-h/nl-zagora.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152001700269749794" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Nam LaMore with artisans at Zagora craft-fair, 2007" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimfaT1F6SQIUJDtbtTNoFkL2ihXThqhUO-w3L86va0wHi-RPTcLFe-dAYrXSXdOFr1MShIdd6pEQd7yyK3hFtggQIFJfYAEAxE3iveMy7GkeWKIlS8C2hTRBHZphzkxH4mULY8/s320/nl-zagora.jpg" border="0" /></a>projects, goals and objectives for SBD. My hobby of photography has evolved and become a useful tool in helping artisans with their marketing efforts. Program Staff and the PCV community recognize this and have made good use of this skill.<br /><br /><b>Create Support Networks.</b><br />I tried to create networks around me. This has included PCVs in and out of my sector, stage and region; artisans in my site and elsewhere; PC Staff ranging from my Program Staff to other sector’s Program and Administrative Staff; Host Country Nationals in my community ranging from café workers to local officials; and “others” who include development workers from such international NGOs as JICA, KOICA, Oxfam and UNESCO. For example, at a recent craft festival, Amina Yarbis (I met her a year earlier) noticed I was being harassed by kids. She motioned to the kids to come over, and told them to ask me questions about who I am and what I was doing in Morocco. I was having a cultural exchange moment with the kids, with Amina acting as a cultural attaché. When the kids left, she said she remembered our discussion that I sometimes face harassment just because I am a diverse PCV, and that the unwanted attention can be a source of frustration. The same day, she trusted me to watch her booth as she went for a long lunch. We provide mutual support and perspectives to each other on many different levels.<br /><br /><b>Develop Routines.</b><br />I developed daily, weekly and monthly routines shortly after arriving in my site. Khemisset was my Community-Based Training site, so I had an idea of what my daily and weekly routines would be. An example of a daily routine was taking a walk to the medina each morning. Sometimes the walk brought me to the artisana for work-related discussions, but more importantly it was a way for me to integrate daily with my <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIdlnHogfnVeE_7NCFNJo7rn0Qm0683rEXbZfGYiUlwEfx0_n28dyxRStq-KXTU71UVjroqUEVoAE-doKLj2M8KqBUPH-UKgiiSF504KORemfyQ4HeNdsw3W4rq0mUYt1Dmnh/s1600-h/nl-tanger.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152003512745948722" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Nam LaMore in Tanger, May 2007" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIdlnHogfnVeE_7NCFNJo7rn0Qm0683rEXbZfGYiUlwEfx0_n28dyxRStq-KXTU71UVjroqUEVoAE-doKLj2M8KqBUPH-UKgiiSF504KORemfyQ4HeNdsw3W4rq0mUYt1Dmnh/s320/nl-tanger.jpg" border="0" /></a>community. An example of a weekly routine is Happy Couscous Friday, when I have lunch with my landlord’s family. Or weekly routine is going to the weekly souk where I have lunch at the same fish-fry tent, buy fresh produce from vegetable sellers and discuss tourist traffic with carpet sellers. These have been rewarding cultural experiences.<br /><br /><b>Acknowledge Culture Shock. </b><br />I live (next to a mosque) in a conservative part of town that is in a not-so-conservative-PCV site. In spite of having less than five months of Service left, I continue to experience culture shock everyday. For example, I am not comfortable covered head-to-toe when it is hot enough to quickly brew sun-teas. However, I respect the culture and, therefore, do not show my bare knees or shoulders. Another example, my apartment is equipped with a traditional Moroccan toilette. I hate to squat and read Newsweek in the morning; instead, I catch-up on world politics and global warming while sipping on non-refrigerated, no-sugared, sun-brewed tea and glancing up at the setting sun from my kitchen. Not so bad.</ul><br />The final essential ingredient to my Volunteer Life is getting to know PC Office’s Hakim (administrative assistant) and Azeddine (tech guru) – they are very helpful. I always thank Hakim whenever he patches me through to or takes a message for my Programming Staff, and Azeddine for keeping the PCV Lounge computers and printer from failing when I need them most … now, for example, as I put the finishing touches on thi<br /><br /><center># # #</center></ul><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: right"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps" target="_blank" rel="tag">peace corps</a>.<a href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa" target="_blank" rel="tag">africa</a>.<a href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco" target="_blank" rel="tag">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com237tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-43640462870478756992008-01-02T10:10:00.000+00:002008-01-02T18:31:32.824+00:00Come Into the LightLiving in Morocco was an interesting experience in many ways. Indeed it is probably one of the most liberal of Muslim countries; I witnessed this act of religious tolerance first hand every day. I was asked if I was Muslim<sup>1</sup> on a daily basis. Typical conversation (translated in English for my benefit):<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hBU12xFVmZoE53myawO1q-fk2q0tsXd1H_9NryPBLtXRXKA6eLmu0TmzriNgZiHOQ0OtlhYyz7JsYx2nsAOJH9Kr61jm5ApNipi624l54qZ0FS87Hfb23_72HVuEHhIEXIF/s1600-h/HPIM5952.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150939421713462770" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Moroccan lampshade" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hBU12xFVmZoE53myawO1q-fk2q0tsXd1H_9NryPBLtXRXKA6eLmu0TmzriNgZiHOQ0OtlhYyz7JsYx2nsAOJH9Kr61jm5ApNipi624l54qZ0FS87Hfb23_72HVuEHhIEXIF/s320/HPIM5952.JPG" border="0" /></a> <ul><b><span style="color:#000099;">Moroccan: Peace, brother! May Allah bless us this day!</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Me: Peace to you in return!</span><br /><span style="color:#000099;">Moroccan: How do you like Morocco?</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Me: I'm happy to be a guest here.</span><br /><span style="color:#000099;">Moroccan: Are you Muslim?</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Me: Not yet.</span><br /><span style="color:#000099;">Moroccan: Islam is the best religion. We believe in all the great prophets!<sup>2</sup></span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Me: Oh, that's good to know.</span><br /><span style="color:#000099;">Moroccan: Say this with me, my brother, <i>"I testify that there is no true god but Allah, and that Mohamed is the Messenger of Allah."</i></span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Me: "I testify that there is ..." hmmm what happens if I say this?</span><br /><span style="color:#000099;">Moroccan: Just say it, you'll be a good Muslim. Repeat after me, <i>"I testify that there is no true god but Allah, and that Mohamed is the Messenger of Allah."</i></span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Me: Thank you, but I should go now.</span><br /><span style="color:#000099;">Moroccan: Allah protects you in your travel!</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Me: Peace be with you!</span></b></ul>The above conversation, whether with a stranger or a member of my host family, recycled itself without fail.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">1. Because to people in my community they don't understand why I would be in Morocco if not to become one with the religion.<br />2. Buddha isn't considered a prophet. Muslims consider Buddhists to be immoral (not <i>amoral</i>) and god-less. Though I don't identify as Buddhist, I was often told bluntly by complete strangers that I could still go to heaven if I converted to Muslim. I guess my share of 50 virgins will go to someone else.</span><br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: right"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps" target="_blank" rel="tag">peace corps</a>.<a href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa" target="_blank" rel="tag">africa</a>.<a href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco" target="_blank" rel="tag">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-82793761561567522642008-01-01T10:00:00.000+00:002008-01-01T18:05:10.239+00:00Homebound - the short take<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6RxI_iaEMm1ApsoZgw7ZOGUQ0t2VdEcOLEuGIrTkmOc77_SQalk4-6X61_mUEsAYgu-cX84-VgUNclrYmMH4jezxAjjoOcSwDYDuCSCKRHHrRGWNSCq0whXb0h17oZs-yYF49/s1600-h/HPIM6055.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150568671546537442" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Orly Airport, waiting for AirFrance Couch to CDG airport" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6RxI_iaEMm1ApsoZgw7ZOGUQ0t2VdEcOLEuGIrTkmOc77_SQalk4-6X61_mUEsAYgu-cX84-VgUNclrYmMH4jezxAjjoOcSwDYDuCSCKRHHrRGWNSCq0whXb0h17oZs-yYF49/s320/HPIM6055.JPG" border="0" /></a>This the last SMS text message I sent in Morocco to some friends and volunteers:<br /><br /><i>"Thank you Morocco! Boarding plane for an epic 36-hour, airport-hopping journey: Fes-Paris-New York-Los Angeles. See you out in the world! NL"</i> - Fes airport, 18:12, 12 December, 2007<br /><br />Getting out of Morocco was easy, but the security check in Paris was not easy. Because I had lived in Morocco for more than two years, there were many, DETAILED questions about my activities abroad. Unfortunately the non-American security check personnel for the American-based airline had never heard of the United States Peace Corps; I had to discuss in detail the mission and goals of the Peace Corps, my host-family, my Arabic language skill, etc.<br /><br />I had been up practically all night so that I could catch the first AirFrance Coach bus from Orly airport ot Charles De Gaulle airport. In my sleep-deprived state, I managed to explain everything coherently if not slowly, and subconsciously throwing in Arabic phrases that confused the inquisitor; this only prolonged my detention with airport security.<br /><br />All this was worth it to get on the plane, where it was a good feeling washed over me as the cabin crew treated like a human being.<br /><br /><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: right"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps" target="_blank" rel="tag">peace corps</a>.<a href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa" target="_blank" rel="tag">africa</a>.<a href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco" target="_blank" rel="tag">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1160792865046364592006-10-13T18:03:00.000+00:002006-11-28T00:27:31.036+00:00Signing OffI <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/09/joy-of-ramadan.html">alluded</a> to the fact that this blog is no longer flying under the radar, that it is actively being observed by forces beyond my comprehension. Spikes in site traffic from certain domains beg the question of why the increased traffic from said domains: does this blog have anything of value to offer think tanks?<br /><br />The bottom-line to all this <i style="color: rgb(102, 51, 102);"><b>cloak-and-dagger</b></i> is that some options surfaced, including:<br /><ul>A. Deleting my blog<sup>1</sup>.<br />B. Continuing to blog with a <b>RADICALLY</b> different tone<sup>2</sup>.<br />C. Suspending my blog<sup>3</sup>.<br />D. Do nothing<sup>4</sup>.</ul>This blog is in no way retired, it is just suspended. This blog served as an extension to my journal (as I mentioned many entries ago), and suspending it neither invalidates my experience, nor diminishes my commitment, as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Morocco. So, it looks like I'll need to look elsewhere to fulfill the <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/08/updated-blog-mission-statement.html">Peace Corps' Third Goal</a>; <b>YouTube</b> and <b>flickr</b> come to mind! The mice in me noggin are scheduled to work overtime for other solutions<sup>5</sup>.<br /><ul><ul><i style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">Last blog entry during In-service, First-Year Peace Corps/Morocco Volunteer posting. Blogs of other Peace Corps Volunteers can be found on the left, under Blog Parade, and elsewhere on the Web. This blog has been suspended. Inshallah, my traditional, paper-based journal continues to record my experience until Close-Of-Service at the end of Nov '07. This is Nam LaMore, Peace Corps Volunteer in the Middle Atlas of Morocco, signing off</i>.<sup>6</sup></ul></ul><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/hm-sun3.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/hm-sun3.jpg" alt="Sunset in Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="234" hspace="0" width="500" /></a></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Any Silicon Valley six-grader knows that Web pages are cached on many servers, and can take <b><i>YEARS</i></b> for edited and/or deleted pages to actually vanish on the World Wide Web; until then, these so called unwanted, abandoned and orphaned pages become part of the vast, expanding cobweb.<br />2. You're kidding, right?<br />3. Though I've tried to be sensitive about cultural and safety/security issues with each entry, I'm far from infallible. As Alexander Pope said, <i>"To err is human."</i> The other part of this quote is sorta boring, so I've leaving it out.<br />4. Thinking it through, this is <i>not an option!</i> If you think otherwise, then the Peace Corps <u>might</u> not be for you!<br />5. No, email SPAM is not an acceptable solution!<br />6. Complete plagiarism from the end of the sci-fi horror fest <b><i>Alien</i></b> (1979), where Ripley (played by then-unknown Sigourney Weaver) reports before going into deep sleep, <i>"Final report of the commercial starship Nostromo, third officer reporting. The other members of the crew, Kane, Lambert, Parker, Brett, Ash and Captain Dallas, are dead. Cargo and ship destroyed. I should reach the frontier in about six weeks. With a little luck, the network will pick me up. This is Ripley, last survivor of the Nostromo, signing off</i>."</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><b><b>tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></b></b></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1160044083836350292006-10-05T10:18:00.000+00:002006-12-10T10:46:58.973+00:00I HEART San FranciscoI'm feeling a bit homesick, specifically for San Francisco, California.<br /><br />Aside from staging all-night Ramadan movie marathons of bootleg DVD movies with the <i>City by the Bay</i> San Francisco as the location set, this Peace Corps Morocco Volunteer looked through his photo archive and created the following heart-arts postcard. More about the 130+ heart-arts at the website <a target="_blank" href="http://www.heartsinsf.com">Hearts in San Francisco</a>.<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/SFhearts.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/SFhearts.jpg" alt="Hearts in San Francisco postcard" align="none" border="1" height="333" hspace="0" width="500" /></a></center><br />Here's a partial list of movies I'm watching<sup>1</sup> with San Francisco (or the Bay Area) as the set location ...<br /><ul><i><b>The Maltese Falcon</b></i> - Humphrey Bogart at his best; wonder if there's a remake in the works.<br /><i><b>Vertigo</b></i> - An Alfred Hitchock's classic with the beautiful, sexy Kim Novak - <i>hawt</i>!<br /><i><b>Birdman of Alcatraz</b></i> - Current crop of movies based on real stories don't even come this close.<br /><i><b>The Graduate</b></i> - Who was <i><u>your</u></i> Mr./Mrs. Robinson?<br /><i><b>American Graffiti</b></i> - This movie is great for its soundtrack.<br /><i><b>Invasion of the Body Snatcher</b></i> - No, the movie's not about the guys lurking in gay ghetto Castro District.<br /><i><b>Sister Act</b></i> - Whoopi Goldberg's antics, go girl! Isn't she due for another good comedy?<br /><i><b>The Joy Luck Club</b></i> - Hmmm, I've told all my Moroccan friends watching this movie with me that I am not in the movie, and none of the actors are my relatives. <i>They still don't believe me.</i> Is Amy Tan working on a new novel? I hope she makes it available for download, or at least send a few copies to Peace Corps offices!<br /><i><b>Mrs. Doubtfire</b></i> - Robin Williams and a dress. Yes, I've run into Mr. Funny hiking around town; he's a genuinely nice guy.<br /><i><b>Basic Instinct</b></i> - Yeah, the movie where Sharen Shone's "snatch" helped launched her career.<br /><i><b>Interview with the Vampire</b></i> - Never was an Anne Rice fan until I saw the movie.<br /><i><b>Forest Gump</b></i> - A great film with a great soundtrack.<br /><i><b>Koyaanisqatsi: Life Out of Balance</b></i> - Amazing cinematography set to music.<br /><i><b>Star Trek: The Voyage Home</b></i> - Yeah, the one with the whales in it.<br /><i><b>What Dreams May Come</b></i> - Robin Williams and the after-life. Put away the voodoo doll, crucifix cross, rosary prayer beads, ankh, spirit peace pipe, ouija board, dreamcatcher, totem pole, mandrake root, deadly nightshade brew, graveyard soil for pentacle circles, sun disc and holy grail.<br /><i><b>The Princess Diary</b></i> - No, it's not about any of <i>my</i> friends.<br /><i><b>Armistead Maupin's More Tales of the City </b></i>- I really get homesick watching this because the characters remind me of some of friends, especially my girl-pal SH<sup>2</sup>, and guy-buddies JB<sup>3</sup> and AA<sup>4</sup>. If anyone runs into Armistead, then please let him know that there is at least one Peace Corps Volunteer, assigned to a Berber town in the Middle Atlas of Morocco, who really appreciates his stories/movies.</ul>If you're not familiar with these movies, hop over to the Internet Movie Database, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.imbd.com">IMDB</a>, and check out the write-ups (some are not unlike sixth grade book reports).<br /><br />This post is dedicated to all the Peace Corps Volunteers, past, current and inspired, who call San Francisco, and the Bay Area, home.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Listing and watching these movies is in <b>no way my endorsement of their entertainment value</b>; I simply have them in my DVD collection.<br />2. She's moving out of the Bay Area to be closer to her niece.<br />3. He's been keeping me updated on Hollywood's gossips & rumours; but he's been MIA for a couple of months, so I've no idea what that crack-smoking Whitney's been up to or if Britney's popping out another swamp rat.<br />4. He's moving back to NY, saying that the City by the Bay is a bit too laid-back for him; <i>exactly</i> the reason why I HEART San Francisco.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1159091253487385672006-09-24T22:40:00.000+00:002006-12-10T10:24:10.986+00:00The Joy of RamadanI'm not sure where all the time went<sup>1</sup>, but a whole year has gone by and it is time to celebrate the "<i>holy cottonmouth month</i>"<sup>2</sup> that is Ramadan! Today is the first of 30 days of fasting from dawn to dusk. In addition to fasting, Ramadan is a time for me to put away my pressure cooker, frying pan, utensils, practically everything except my tea pot and tea glasses. Why hide the cooking gear you ask?<br /><br />Well Ramadan is a time for each Muslim to celebrate and reflect all that <i>Allah</i> has provided, and spend time with family and friends. Fasting all day can be trying, so <b><i>lftor</i></b> [breaking of the fast, "break-fast"] is the first meal that is rejoiced with much anticipation. My Moroccan friends, neighbors, artisans, etc know that I live alone<sup>3</sup>, so I've lined up <i>lftor</i> invitations for the next 30 days .. <i>l'humdula</i> .. no cooking for an entire month!<br /><br />I fasted 25 of 30 days for <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2005/10/ramadan-annular-eclipse-sheep-riding.html">Ramadan last year</a>, breaking the fast a few days due to illness.<br /><br />There has been a <b>tug-o-war of a sort over my blog</b>. Though not on the same conflict caliber as waged between the eternal forces of Heaven and Hell, this is causing some stress and I am <i>purposely limiting my blog posting</i> until it is resolved. However, this won't limit how much time I spend reading your blog; on the contrary, I'll be spending <i>more time</i> <b>lurking on your blog</b> while the fate of my blog tiptoes on eggshells among giants eavesdropping on my blog.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. The days and weeks seem to blend into each another since my arrival; the changing seasons, a new concept for this native Californian, help to mark the passage of time.<br />2. Nearing the end of a fasting day, the corners of the mouth collect bubbled spittles. This, with the betrayal of slurred, irrational speech, can make it difficult to discern one who is infected with rabies and one who has been fasting all day.<br />3. I'm sure they, and you, have many questions for me: <i>Who does my laundry? Who cooks for me? Who cleans my apartment? Who tucks me in bed each night? Who takes out the trash? Who cares for my pet parakeets? Who waters my houseplants (yeah, not plastic)?</i></span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1158395144474510882006-09-16T08:16:00.000+00:002007-01-26T10:32:39.390+00:00Weekly Shopping at the Souk<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/kh-souk2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/kh-souk2.jpg" alt="Peace Corps Volunteer shopping at the weekly souk, Morocco" align="right" border="1" height="172" hspace="0" width="250" /></a>An experience that is greatly enhanced in Morocco but greatly diminished States-side is the weekly shopping experience. The <b><i>souk</i></b> [weekly outdoors market, sort of like a combination flea- & farmers-market] is the place to see and be seen. If I don't typically see my neighbors and artisans during the week, then I'll catch up with them at the <i>souk</i> -- rain or shine.<br /><br />Unlike most other Volunteer's site in Morocco, I have the option to go to two weekly <i>souks</i><sup>1</sup>: Mondays and Tuesdays. However, I prefer to go to the much-bigger Tuesday weekly <i>souk</i>. Going to the <i>souk</i> is a social event for me, and it includes stopping by the <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/07/weekly-fish-fry-at-souk.html">fish-fry tent</a> for lunch.<br /><br />The <i>souk</i> is the place to go for cheap, seasonal produce; I spend less than 20dirhams (about US$2.25) for a week's supply of fruits and vegetables. If I run out of fresh fruits and vegetables during the week (usually because of visitors or spoilage), then I go to a local green grocer. I don't own a refridgerator, so I've had to learn to shop and cook for one.<br /><br />I suppose when I'm ready, I can buy a donkey at the <i>souk</i>.<br /><br /><center><i>Click on image for a better experience.</i><br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/kh-souk3.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/kh-souk3.jpg" alt="Reed-woven goods at the souk,Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="422" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />Mohamed sells reed-woven goods at the <i>souk</i>. I've bought two straw hats (I forgot the first one on a bus) and two large baskets from him (for laundry, in an effort to keep my place tidy).<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/hm-table.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/hm-table.jpg" alt="Table from Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="326" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />My dining room table comes from <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/09/boujad-fantasia-part-ii">Boujad</a>, the capital of cheaply- & massly-produced furniture<sup>2</sup>.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/hm-table2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/hm-table2.jpg" alt="Fantasia in Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="432" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />Samir and his son, they travel from Boujad to Tangier, stopping off in Khémisset and other places along the way, to sell affordable furniture.<br /><br /></center><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Most Volunteer sites, in Morocco, have a weekly <i>souk</i>; however, some sites do not have a weekly <i>souk</i>, so Volunteers at these sites travel out of their sites to the closest souk-town for their weekly shopping.<br />2. Furniture made in my town can easily go for five times the price of the Boujad-produced furniture.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1157966299072804682006-09-11T11:13:00.000+00:002006-10-19T11:23:59.760+00:00Call to Prayer<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/hz-mosque.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/hz-mosque.jpg" alt="Mosque in my town, Morocco" align="right" border="1" height="254" hspace="0" width="250" /></a>My apartment is on the top-floor of a four-story building. The building is directly across from a <b>HUGE</b> mosque. I didn't even think twice about NOT renting this place, thinking to myself: <i>"How often am I going to have the opportunity to live across from a mosque?"</i><br /><br />The <b><i>muezzin</i></b> [call to prayer] happens five times daily, lasting just a few minutes each time<sup>1</sup>: <b>pre-dawn, mid-morning, noon, mid-afternoon and dusk</b>. It's sorta-funny-in-a-you're-not-suppose-to-laugh way when there's a problem with the microphone, or when the <b><i>iman</i></b> [man who does the calls] coughs or clears his throat into the microphone during the <b><i>muezzin</i></b>. I had considered getting a wallclock for my home, but the calls are so precise that it's not necessary to get one; the 4:30am<sup>2</sup> call is great when I need to get up early to catch transportation out of my site!<br /><br />As of today, the <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><b>Fifth Anniversary of the Attack on the World Trade Center, September 11, 2001</b></span>, I have heard the call to prayer more than 1800 times!<br /><br /><center><i>Allahu Akbar, Allahu Akbar<br />[Allah is most great, Allah is most great]<br /><br />Ash-hadu anna la- Illaha Il-Allah<br />[I bear witness that there is no other object of worship except Allah]<br /><br />Ash-hadu anna Muhammad-an-rasoolullah<br />[I bear witness that Muhammad is the messenger of Allah]<br /><br />Hayya alass-salah<br />[Come to prayer]<br /><br />Hayya Alal Falah<br />[Come to success]<br /><br />Allahu Akbar, Allahu Akbar<br />[Allah is most great, Allah is most great]<br /><br />La-ilaha il-Allah<br />[There is no other object of worship except Allah]</i></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. The call is <i>a capella</i>, but sometimes, I turn up the music on my laptop computer to add to it.<br />2. From my perch on the roof, I can see some of my neighbors going to the mosque. I can say with conviction that I <i>don't</i>judge those who do not go to pray; they are still good Muslims to me!</span><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1157725131060649752006-09-08T14:12:00.000+00:002006-09-08T14:25:11.153+00:00Boujad Fantasia, Part II<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p3.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p3.jpg" alt="Marabout in Boujad, Morocco" align="right" border="1" height="155" hspace="0" width="250" /></a><b>Boujad</b> is a holy town with a <i>marabout</i> [either a saint or his tomb] on every corner<sup>1</sup>. Though mosques can be seen in any village, town or city in Morocco, marabouts are only in some places. In general, non-Muslims are forbidden to enter these sacred grounds. <a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p13.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p13.jpg" alt="PCV at Fantasia in Boujad, Morocco" align="left" border="1" height="250" hspace="0" width="155" /></a>There are many marabout-towns in Morocco, and some well-known marabout-towns include Rabat, Moulay Idriss, Meknes, Fez, and Casablanca.<br /><br />LS-the-Peace-Corps-Volunteer<sup>2</sup>-assigned-to-Boujad is a gracious hostess, but her <i>pet cat is from <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">hell</span></i><sup>3</sup>. According to LS, my multi-day visit with just a few scratches is a <i>record low</i>!<br /><br />With the mercury climbing and hovering around 50° C mid-day, we decided to go to the <i>souk</i> [weekly outdoors market] at the break of day. Waking up at 5:30am, we arrived at the <i>souk</i> by horse-drawn cart; coincidentally, it was the same driver and his horse-drawn cart to take us to the <i>fantasia</i> field the next day.<br /><br />Arriving at the dawn-light <i>souk</i>, we first walked over to the carpet <i>souk</i> before shopping for vegetables. Carpet weavers from the <i>bled</i> [country-side] formed a big circle to show off their carpets, and the middle-men arrive to inspect and buy the carpets. My hostess and I were neither, but I'm sure the weavers and middle-men were staring at us for different reasons. By the time the carpet <i>souk</i> finished, around 6:30am, we walked over to vegetable tents that were set up for shopping.<br /><br /><center><i>Click on image for a better experience.</i><br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p1.jpg" alt="Carpet souk in Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="291" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />Carpet <i>souk</i> in Boujad at dawn.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p11.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p11.jpg" alt="PCV on a horse-drawn cart in Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="375" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />The same cart-driver who took us to the <i>souk</i> also took us to the <i>fantasia</i> area.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p12.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p12.jpg" alt="Fantasia in Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="375" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />The green-garbed fantasia rider!<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p7.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p7.jpg" alt="Fantasia Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="375" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />The <i>fantasia</i> war exercise: riders on their mounts with rifles in hand preparing to charge across the field.<br /><br /></center><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Slight exaggeration. There's probably a marabout on every <i>other</i> corner.<br />2. Due to safety and security, no names! However she agreed to have her picture posted here.<br />3. Just like other supernatural creatures, every attempt at taking a pictures of the hell-cat came out blurry or distorted; so just like Count Dracula, there's no picture of the cat. You'll have to take my words for it, he [<i>the cat</i>] exists.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1157617350260454242006-09-07T08:14:00.000+00:002006-09-07T08:22:30.626+00:00Boujad Fantasia, Part I<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p6.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p6.jpg" alt="Fantasia Boujad, Morocco" align="right" border="1" height="304" hspace="0" width="250" /></a><i>Chain-lightning streaked across the sky. Thunderclaps heralded approaching greatness. Dust storms blinded on-lookers. And the sound of neighing horses echoed in the distance. Was the <b>Age of Apocalypse</b> at hand?</i><br /><br />No, I was at <b>Boujad</b>'s annual <i>moussem</i> (festival to a local saint) last week, and the <b><i>fantasia</i></b> horse show was just starting.<br /><br />Boujad is some five or six hours south-west from my site. Flagging various local transports including grand taxis and souk buses, I was greeted in the Middle Atlas holy town with 50° C<sup>1</sup> heat. My artisans and I had traveled separately to the festival<sup>2</sup>.<br /><br />Although I never caught up with my artisans - the fantasia war exercise and the craft fair were held in different parts of the town - I had a great time at this cultural spectacule.<br /><br />I think the fantasia in Khémisset was cancelled this year; I asked around and no one seemed to know about it. However, the Moulay Idriss (near Meknes) moussen is coming up.<br /><br /><center><i>Click on image for a better experience.</i><br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p4.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p4.jpg" alt="Fantasia Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="226" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />The <i>fantasia</i>, rain or sun, takes place on a vast wheat-harvested plain. Many nomadic Berber tribes gather to trade goods and to compete in the fantasia<sup>3</sup>. Dressed in fine, traditional Arab clothing, horses and riders charge across the field and shoot their muskets in unison<sup>4</sup>.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p10.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p10.jpg" alt="Fantasia Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="352" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />Fantasia horses are no ordinary work-horse: they are ripped with muscles and well groom. Only stallions are allowed into the fantasia ranks and files. According to Berber folklore, only men and virgin women are allowed to ride a fantasia stallion; a non-virgin on a fantasia stallion would <b style="color: rgb(153, 102, 51);">corrupt</b><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> </span>the equine, causing it to loose its power and speed.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/bou-p9.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/bou-p9.jpg" alt="Boujad, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="306" hspace="0" width="500" /></a><br />Each tribe repeatedly formed the line, charged across the field and fired off their rifles during the three-day competition. I haven't a clue how they are judged, or what technicals or fashions (best in show?) are critical<sup>5</sup>.<br /></center><span style="font-size:78%;">1. 120° F<br />2. It was a last-minute requests from my artisans for me to accompany them, and I had to get travel approval from my delegation, community counterpart, Peace Corps Morocco staff and police. Luckily there was no red tape, and everyone was in a cheery mood, to get the Work-related Leave Form signed to leave site.<br />3. I was told the winning tribe gets a huge sum of money, <i>15 million</i> dirhams. Why would nomads all this money? Where would they put all that money, in the <i>Bank of Nomads</i>?<br />4. Akin to the Olympic synchronized swim team, there's always a rider or two who would fire off his rifle early or late.<br />5. I have this same ignorance when watching an ice-skating competition. It's all magical to me.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156880369214504902006-08-29T19:28:00.000+00:002006-08-30T01:14:24.653+00:00The Updated Blog Mission StatementLeading up to the start of my service with the Peace Corps, the content and tone of my blog changed but I hadn't update its <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2005/05/why-of-this-blog.html">original mission statement</a> ... <i>until now</i>. As an <i><b>Idealist</b></i>, the <a target="_blank" href="http://www.peacecorps.gov/">Peace Corps</a>' mission is in alignment with my own vision of world peace and friendship:<br /><br /><i>In 1961, President John F. Kennedy established the Peace Corps to promote world peace and friendship. The Peace Corps' mission has three simple goals:</i><br /><ul> <i> 1. Helping the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.</i><br /><i> 2. Helping promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served.</i><br /><i> 3. Helping promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans.</i></ul>My blog is a vehicle to achieve the <b>Third Goal of the Peace Corps</b>, and the updated Mission Statement is as follows:<br /><br /><center><table style="width: 400px;" bordercolorlight="#33CCFF" bordercolordark="#0000CC" bgcolor="#ffffcc" border="2" bordercolor="#0000ff"><tbody><tr><td><center><b>MISSION STATEMENT<br />'Laugh Loud and Often'<br />(http://nlamore.blogspot.com):</b><br /><br />This blog is one of the manifestations of the Third Goal of the <a target="_blank" href="http://www.peacecorps.gov/">Peace Corps</a>: <i>Helping promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans</i>.</center><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></center><br />I have decided not to change the title of this blog, in part due to my <i>subscription base of <b>two</b> longtime lurkers</i> who would get very confused, and <b>downright angry</b>, by a title change.<br /><br />I have been asked to attend a craft-fair in the Middle Atlas, so I will not update until my return sometime early next week.<br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156756302884025722006-08-28T09:02:00.000+00:002006-08-28T17:51:53.240+00:00Rabat MuralsI was in Rabat this weekend, just to escape from the heat in my town. Instead of <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/05/time-to-hit-beach.html">hitting the beach</a> (as I have done most summer week-ends), I decided to just walk around the Moroccan capital taking pictures. I came upon a group of murals that were striking. Taking countless pictures, I plan to use the images for my computer's screensavers and backgrounds (as I did with the images of <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/01/post-office-adventure.html">murals in Meknes</a>); here are just a few of my favorites:<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-art1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-art1.jpg" alt="Mural in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="100" hspace="0" width="141" /></a> <a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-art2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-art2.jpg" alt="Mural in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="100" hspace="0" width="141" /></a> <a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-art3.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-art3.jpg" alt="Mural in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="100" hspace="0" width="133" /></a><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-art4.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-art4.jpg" alt="Mural in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="100" hspace="0" width="133" /></a> <a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-art5.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-art5.jpg" alt="Mural in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="100" hspace="0" width="141" /></a> <a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-art6.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-art6.jpg" alt="Mural in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="100" hspace="0" width="141" /></a></center><br />I was to attend the <a target="_blank" href="http://www.morocco.com/culture/weddings-customs/">Imilchil Wedding <i>Moussem</i></a> (festival in celebration of a local saint) this last weekend with artisans from my town; however, the craft fair part of the event was cancelled and the artisans did not go. I still could have attended on my own, but decided that I could use <i>more down-time</i> from my vacation from the week before. I'll likely attend next year's Wedding <i>Moussem</i>, with or without artisans!<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/superman-logo.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/superman-logo.jpg" alt="Superman logo" align="right" border="1" height="100" hspace="0" width="139" /></a><b><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">ON A DIFFERENT NOTE</span></b>: With much anticipation, I picked up a <i>bootleg DVD</i> copy of <a target="_blank" href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0348150/">Bryan Singer's <i>Superman Returns</i></a>. Well, I was disappointed; I'm surprised that Singer puts his name to this garbage; with a production price tag of US$350 to US$400 million, various sources say it <i>might</i> break even. <b><i style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">SUPERMAN RETURNS</i> SUCKS</b>. It's worst than Halle Barry's <a target="" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2005/02/oscar-rizzie-awards.html">Razzie Awarded <i><b>Catwoman</b></i><b></b></a>. Brandon Routh makes a great Man of Steel, Kevin Spacey isn't the most memorable menace as Lex Luthor (this wasn't a spoiler for anyone, I hope), but I'm voting for Singer to get a Razzie Award.<br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156452027618067782006-08-24T20:36:00.000+00:002006-08-24T20:40:27.686+00:00Vacation to the Rif Mountains, Part IV<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/tet-1b.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/tet-1b.jpg" alt="Tetouan, Morocco" align="right" border="1" height="138" hspace="0" width="200" /></a>This is the final installation in a series of posts for a recent vacation trip to the Rif region of Northern Morocco.<br /><ul> <li><a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/08/vacation-to-rif-mountains-part-i.html">Part I</a>: <b>Nador</b> and <b>Al Hoceima</b></li> <li><a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/08/vacation-to-rif-mountains-part-ii.html">Part II</a>: <b>Chaouèn</b></li> <li><a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/08/vacation-to-rif-mountains-part-iii.html">Part III</a>: <b>Martil</b> and <b>Cabo Negro</b></li> <li>Part IV: <b>Tetouan</b> and <b>Fès</b> (<i style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">You Are Here!</i>)</li> </ul> Tetouan is surrounded on all sides by limestone mountains, and low clouds often linger about the city. The royal palace, at the center of <b>Place Hassan II</b>, is within the medina; and, interestingly enough, some surrounding shops share a common wall with royal buildings<sup>1</sup>.<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/tet-1a.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/tet-1a.jpg" alt="Tetouan, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="354" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />This is one of the many gates to get into the medina; I forget the name, but it is just across from the artisana school/museum.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/tet-1c.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/tet-1c.jpg" alt="Tetouan, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="361" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />This is one of the most <b>magnificent traffic circles</b> I have ever seen. Andalusian music melodically pours from the water spray. While sitting at a cafe to people watch and enjoy the music, a Moroccan elder sat down next to me and started to talk to me. Quickly realizing that I didn't understand Spanish from my grimace, he switched to Arabic and was surprised that I was able to hold a short conversation with him. He invited me to have stay with his family the next time I visit Tetouan .. <i>enshallah</i>.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/tet-1d.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/tet-1d.jpg" alt="Tetouan, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="339" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Cats abound in Morocco, and there's always one to greet or say good-bye to a traveler. This one, just like the <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/08/vacation-to-rif-mountains-part-ii.html">cat in Chaouen</a>, waved to me as I made my way to the bus station.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/vaca-fes1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/vaca-fes1.jpg" alt="Fes, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="293" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Leather tannery cooperative in Fès. <b>The place smelled awful from the still bloodied hides of lamb/sheep, goat, cow, horse and camel.</b> Touring the leather cooperative is informative: lamb leather is the softest (good for jackets), while camel hide is the most durable (great for seat cushions).<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/vaca-fes2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/vaca-fes2.jpg" alt="Tetouan, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="259" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Yellow-coloured leather is much more difficult to dye than other colors. Instead of soaking in vats, the yellow colour is derived from <i>olive oil infused with saffron</i>. Oddly, the price of red vs. yellow slippers are the same. <i>Perhaps I can convince my program manager to move me to Fès to help the cooperative with business development!</i> When in Fès, be sure to stop by <b>Terrasse la maison des Tanneurs: 2, Chouara Blida Dar Dbagh.</b></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Imagine the property value! Owner: <i>"Yes, I have a duplex available but you'll be sharing the common wall with the King ... is that ok?</i>"</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156413015776262872006-08-24T09:42:00.000+00:002006-10-19T11:28:15.180+00:00Vacation to the Rif Mountains, Part III<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-7.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-7.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="right" border="1" height="115" hspace="0" width="200" /></a>Quaint seaside resort towns of <b>Martil</b> and <b>Cabo Negro</b><sup>1</sup> on the Mediterranean coast are just under half an hour from cloud-covered <b>Tetouan</b>. As with most tourist destinations, these seaside resorts offer someone like me, a high-society, cultural packrat (<b><i>NOT!</i></b>), exactly what I sought: comfort, convenience and relaxation. There are plenty of cafés and a couple of art galleries, but the pristine beaches are far more inviting.<br /><br />As much as I enjoyed my stay in <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/08/vacation-to-rif-mountains-part-ii.html">Chaouen</a> and my recent stay in seaside town of <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/08/vacation-to-rif-mountains-part-i.html">Al Hoceima</a>, Martil and Cabo Negro felt far more relaxing.<br /><br />I walked along the beach practically every morning and evening for the sunrises and sunsets. One one of my morning walks, I ran into a policeman patrolling the beach. Coincidentally, he said that he was from my site<sup>2</sup> and had been stationed in Martil for the last eight months, with two more years before returning home. Peace Corps Volunteers in Morocco are officially assigned a local police officer to look into our safety, but I think this was just a coincidence that he was from my site. <i>I keep telling myself that I have not been followed by the Moroccan secret police force since my arrival.</i><br /><br /><center><i>(Click on images to enlarge.)<br /></i><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-1.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="256" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />A cliché: Imagine sitting on the beach, listening to the calls of the sea and taking in the saline air.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-2.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="275" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Now, imagine sitting on the beach and listening to the call of a camel.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-3.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-3.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="317" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Yes, there is a <b>ClubMed</b> for those who in need of pampering. Unfortunately, I'm on a Peace Corps Volunteer income.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-4.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-4.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />All quiet on the beach.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-5.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-5.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="336" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Boy fishing off a jetty.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-6.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-6.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="219" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Man preparing to troll for mollusks.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-8.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-8.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="270" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Beached fishing boats.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-9.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-9.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Discovered a secluded cove for fishing and swimming.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/Mart-10.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/Mart-10.jpg" alt="Mediterranean seaside resort, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="278" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Fishing boats at sunset.</center><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Next destination</span>: cloud-covered Tetouan, the trading city that inspired the fictional planet <b><a target="_blank" href="http://www.starwars.com/databank/location/tatooine/">Tatooine</a></b> in the "<i>Star Wars</i>" universe.<br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Stayed in Martil, and walked along its beach to get to less-crowded Cabo Negro beach. I spent so much time walking up and down the beaches that I don't really distinguish between the two.<br />2. He gave me contact info for his family and that I should visit them for couscous on Friday.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156354852138291062006-08-23T17:37:00.000+00:002006-08-23T18:15:45.496+00:00Vacation to the Rif Mountains, Part IIThe Rif Mountains region is internationally associated with the cultivation of hashish<sup>1</sup>; having gone to the <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ucsc.edu/">UCSC</a><sup>2</sup>, you'd expect me to know this .. but I didn't .. and that's not the reason I decided to visit Chaouen. <a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/pc-ch1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/pc-ch1.jpg" alt="Association Youssoufia pour les Homme Handicappe" align="right" border="1" height="137" hspace="0" width="200" /></a>One of the reasons I wanted to visit Chaouen was to visit an artisanal weaving cooperative that came to a recent craft fair in Khemisset: <b>Association Youssoufia pour les Homme Handicapee</b>.<br /><br />The association consists of about 40 artisans who are primarily weavers; they were invited to participate in acraft fair in my town. I took the opportunity to meet with the association's president (pictured) to learn about their marketing strategies and product development, and how I could help them. This "postcard" shows some of the wool fabrics they weave and sell; some members are also tailors and seamsters, making fine winter jackets and coats. I've already ordered a coat in anticipation of a cold winter.<br /><br />Chaouen is very tourist-friendly, where guides and shopkeepers are not overly aggressive in dealing with tourists, i.e. they don't grab you by the arm and pull you into their shops.<br /><center><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1A.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1A.jpg" alt="Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Once a year, the majority of homes in the medina are bathed in a whitewash lime mixture of water and blue paint; the blue is thought to ward off the evil eye. We arrived in town rather late in the day, during high tourist season. Vacationing on a <i><b>shoe-string budget</b></i>, we slept on the roof of a pension that first night.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1B.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1B.jpg" alt="Blue door in Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="322" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />This is a typical blue-painted door of homes in the medina.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1C.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1C.jpg" alt="Trekking in Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />The region around Chaouen is popular with tourists looking for hiking trails and camp grounds. Going on a four-hour hike-loop took us across hashish plantations and slowly up the foothills of the Rif.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1D.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1D.jpg" alt="Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Trekkers hiking just a short distance outside of Chaouen are rewarded with this dramatic townscape; even locals take pride in their town and the fresh air (<i>often with a hint of kif</i>).<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1E.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1E.jpg" alt="Kasbah, Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />One of the attractions in Chaouen is the ancient <i>kasbah</i> (fortress-castle) with its quiet garden and retired prison. The <b>kasbah</b> and the 15th-century <b>Grand Mosque</b> (with its distinctive octagonal minaret) are in the cobbled <b>Plaza Uta el Hamman</b>.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1F.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1F.jpg" alt="Kasbah look-out, Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />This is a view from the inside of the prison tower of the <i>kasbah</i>.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1G.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1G.jpg" alt="Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />One of the buildings next to the defunct prison now serves as an art gallery for visiting artists. I forgot to write down the name of the artist, but his works is clearly influenced by Hinduism.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1H.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1H.jpg" alt="Street in the medina, Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />I was already making plans to visit Chaouen even as I took an early morning stroll through the medina.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/CH-1I.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/CH-1I.jpg" alt="Cat in Chaouen, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="314" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />One of the many cats in the medina saying bye-bye as we headed out towards our next destination: Tetouan and the coastal town of Martil.<br /></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Hashish is also known as <a target="_blank" href="http://www.cannabis.com/">cannabis</a>, marijuana, MJ, kif, etc.<br />2. University of California at Santa Cruz; however, many UCSC alumni also refer to the higher education institution as <i>Uncle Charlie's Summer Camp</i> for its Redwood forests and idyllic beaches.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156325570920164622006-08-23T09:19:00.000+00:002006-08-23T09:32:50.973+00:00Vacation to the Rif Mountains, Part IAs Volunteers, we have responsibilities to our communities; thus, leaving site, for work or otherwise, is strongly discouraged<sup>1</sup>. That said, I planned my vacation late June and turned in the necessary paperwork: mapping out my travel itinerary in detail for each day. After notifying my <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">community counterpart</span>, discussing out-of-site travel with the <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">police officer</span> assigned to keep an eye on me, and seeking approval from my <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">program staff</span>, I prepared for my vacation to the <b>Rif Mountains</b> and the <b style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Mediterranean Sea</b>. <a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/vaca-map.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/vaca-map.jpg" alt="Morocco Map: Vacation to the Rif Mountains" align="right" border="1" height="120" hspace="0" width="150" /></a>Packing was simple: toothbrush, toothpaste, dental floss, three shirts, two pairs of shorts<sup>2</sup>, straw hat, money and national identity card.<br /><br />The next few posts will consist of my visits to <b>Nador</b>, <b>Al Hoceima</b>, <b>Chaouen</b> (Chefchaouen), <b>Martil</b>, <b>Tetouan</b> and <b>Fes</b>.<br /><br />The vacation started with a quick stop in industrial steel-town <b>Nador</b>. The Spanish influence in Morocco is noticeable immediately from the architecture to the <i>"holas!"</i> greetings. Many people were surprised with my regional Arabic, and had difficulty understanding me.<br /><center><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/AH-1A.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/AH-1A.jpg" alt="Nador, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="214" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />I sat at a local cafe waiting for another Volunteer<sup>3</sup> and watched the hustle and bustle of morning activities. Meeting up with my travel companion, we made our way to <b>Al Hoceima</b>, the first vacation destination.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/AH-1B.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/AH-1B.jpg" alt="Al Hoceima, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="270" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Al Hoceima is a seaside resort that is popular with Moroccan tourists. The town is on the west side of a large crescent-shaped bay.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/AH-1C.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/AH-1C.jpg" alt="Nador, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="260" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />The EuroFerry docked in the harbour at sunset.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/AH-1D.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/AH-1D.jpg" alt="Nador, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="324" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Al Hoceima's buildings are characterized by "tile-skin," such as seen here.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/AH-1E.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/AH-1E.jpg" alt="Nador, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Hanging out in Al Hoceima reminded me of just relaxing in Any Beach Town, California; I was a bit homesick as we left for the cooler mountain town of <b>Chouen</b>. The bus ride across the Rif Mountains was rough, periodically getting close to the edge of the often one-lane road. We stopped a few times during the six-hour busride to allow people to empty their vomint bags and bladders.<br /></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. According to <i>Peace Corps Morocco Policy & Procedure Handbook, September 2005 Edition,</i> there are two basic rationales for this policy: 1) Saftey and Security; and 2) Integration into community.<br />2. Though my site is not super-conservative, I don't wear shorts while in site because, well, I just don't need <b>MORE</b> <i>unwanted attention</i>.<br />3. Due to safety and security, I cannot identify my vacation/travel companion.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1155320814445127652006-08-11T18:20:00.000+00:002007-03-17T21:09:12.028+00:00Postcards For EveryoneThank you to everyone for sending postcards since my arrival in Morocco -- they are nicely decorating my concrete walls. As adhesive tape is ineffectual on concrete, I've come up with the clever usage of cloth pin (relatively inexpensive) and dental floss (free from the medical office)! Dental floss is strung between door/window frames, and anywhere I can pound in nails (none to date).<br /><br />As a Volunteer, I have <i style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">limited</i><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span>disposable income; thus, I've not been able to send out as many homemade postcards as I would like to.<br /><br />So, this online postcard is for <a target="_blank" href="http://peripostings.blogspot.com/">peri</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://kallun.blogspot.com/">kallun</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://dylan.tweney.com/">the tweneys</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.sarahchampion.info/">sarah</a>+<a target="_blank" href="http://www.badpress.net/">andrew</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://softseller.blogspot.com/">lester</a> and <a target="_blank" href="http://mquest.blogspot.com/">mquest+jr</a>. <i>(left-upper) A sculpture dedicated to the King, Khemisset; (left-lower) mosaic close-up; (middle) carpet from the Middle Atlas<sup>2</sup>; (right-upper) Hassan Tower from the garden, Rabat; and (right-lower) mosaic close-up of.</i><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/pcard-hmT.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/pcard-hmT.jpg" alt="Postcard from Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="333" hspace="0" width="500" /></a></center><br />And this one is for <a target="_blank" href="http://amerazn.blogspot.com/">amerazn</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://jadedmaniac.blogspot.com/">jadedmaniac</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://scottcurry.blogspot.com/">scott+ian</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://oathsandcurses.blogspot.com/">frankysbride</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://misst2000ph.blogspot.com/">the dutched pinay</a> and <a target="_blank" href="http://fellatioperformer.blogspot.com/">love hurts</a>. <i>(left-upper) Jemaa el Fna mosque at sunset, Marrakesh; (right-upper) Hassan Tower looking towards the Atlantic Ocean, Rabat; (right-lower) "Allah, Country, King" in lights on the side of a mountain, Agadir; (left-lower) carpet from the Middle Atlas; and (center) mosaic close-up.</i><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/pcardPC-DC.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/pcardPC-DC.jpg" alt="Postcard from Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="333" hspace="0" width="500" /></a></center><br />And this for <b>GAK</b> in the Bay Area, <b>AF+DL</b> in Silicon Valley and a <b>friend in Oregon</b> (<i>you know who you are!</i>). <i>(top row) ceramic dishes, clay jugs, and traditional Moroccan slippers; (middle row) dyed reeds use for basket weaving, me, and arched doorway of a mosque; and (bottom row) carpets (these are mainly from the towns of Khemisset & Tiflet), mosaic close-up, and clay pots. These were all taking in or around Rabat and Sale.</i><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/pcard-nl2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/pcard-nl2.jpg" alt="Postcard from Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="333" hspace="0" width="500" /></a></center><br /><br />Advance apology for forgetting anyone, but I'm going on vacation shortly and have much to do before I take off. I'll post again in early Sept when I get back to my site<sup>3</sup>.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Entries forthcoming.<br />2. Carpet weavers-sellers in my town have been teaching me about carpet patterns, symbolism, etc.<br />3. Due to safety & security issues, I cannot post my travel itinerary.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1155255949723087482006-08-11T00:14:00.000+00:002006-08-11T00:25:49.786+00:00As Time Goes ByThe last few months could have gone better. Busy with work was not a problem, but getting sick for prolonged periods really got to me. I remember my programming staff saying, <i>"Volunteers get very busy six to nine months into service as you begin to get a grasp of the kind of work you'll engage for the remainder of the service."</i> When this was said, I remember rolling my eyes to which my programming staff shot a look that could kill. Well, I've sent an apologetic note to the programming staff doubting her words.<br /><br />This is my First Year In Service Activities Calendar (click image to enlarge), and you can see that I've been very busy.<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/2006-cal.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/2006-cal.jpg" alt="First Year Activities Calendar" align="none" border="1" height="300" hspace="0" width="400" /></a></center><br />To my amazement, my language is much better than I give myself credit for; this was brought to my attention when a fellow Volunteer visited my site and commented that I seem confident in speaking the language<sup>1</sup>! Community leaders, including my at-site work supervisor and counterpart, no longer refer to me as <i>miskin</i> (poor thing). My local green grocer knows what veggies I ask for and sets them aside for me. My local post master knows to hold my mail when I tell him I won't be back for a couple of weeks due to a craft fair. My assigned policeman no longer feels like he has to follow me because he knows I can handle the verbal harassment and curiosity from neighborhood kids.<br /><br />In addition to having a busy schedule, I've also had to deal with giardia, dysentery and relapses<sup>2</sup>; Pepto can only go so far before the doctor gave me something much stronger. Though my stomach of iron has been compromised, I've not cowered behind my own cooking. On the contrary, I've been eating at far more adventuresome places (... to be recounted another time). O the joy to provide <i>"samples-on-demand"</i> for lab analysis! I think I've finally got the parasites out of my system, as I've been able to function normally in the recent weeks and no longer on the BRATT<sup>3</sup> diet.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. In reality, I often just use simple phrases that are widely spoken in my site. As with most sites in Morocco, this is a multi-lingual site where French, Darija (Moroccan Arabic, and Berber dialects (three of them) are widly spoken.<br />2. There was a period of three weeks that I left my apartment only three times a week to get needed food & bottled water.<br />3. Bananas, Rice, Apples, Tea and Toast.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1155198745988585992006-08-10T08:20:00.000+00:002006-08-10T08:32:26.020+00:00Letter From Senator Barbara Boxer<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/boxer-env.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/boxer-env.jpg" alt="Envelope from Senator Barbara Boxer" align="right" border="1" height="92" hspace="0" width="200" /></a>Early in the week, I received a States-side letter that evoked the same swell of curiousity and chill as when my community counterpart showed me a letter from the <a target="_blank" href="http://nlamore.blogspot.com/2006/03/letter-from-ministry-of-tourism.html">Ministry of Tourism</a>; this time it was a letter from California's Democratic <a target="_blank" href="http://boxer.senate.gov/">Senator Barbara Boxer</a>.<br /><br />Click on the letter to see her bona fided, rubber-stamped signature. Also, as I haven't seen high-quality paper in a long time, it was such a rewarding experience to feel and touch the "PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER" watermarked letter; try to find the watermarked eagle emblem on the upper right corner<sup>1</sup>. It does not take a keen, CSI-<sup>2</sup>, foresic-trained Peace Corps Volunteer to deduce from the metered postage stamp that this letter was not mailed from the States (though the envelope is purported to be from Fresno, California); rather, it was mailed from Peace Corps/Morocco office in Rabat, Morocco. <i>I cannot think of how else 3.25dh can be put to better use!</i><br /><br />I think I'll send Senator Boxer's office a nice thank you postcard!<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/boxer-ltr.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/boxer-ltr.jpg" alt="Letter from Senator Barbara Boxer" align="none" border="1" height="516" hspace="0" width="400" /></a></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. Ignore the "2005" under the emblem; this was probably an overstocked batch of letterhead papers in attrition mode.<br />2. Crime Scene Investigator.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156406375600101482006-07-03T10:43:00.000+00:002006-08-24T07:59:35.666+00:00Weekly Fish Fry at the SoukI enjoy going to the weekly <i>souk</i> (outdoor market<sup>1</sup>) to stock up on fresh vegetables and housewares. It is also a very social place, as I get to practice my Arabic language and get to see those in my community that I typically don't see during the week.<br /><br />My site, Khemisset, hosts the largest souk in Morocco, and the carpet section is a great place to buy Berber carpets directly from the weavers at a bargain. I usually spend time at the carpet souk to learn about symbolism, dyeing techniques, colour schemes, etc. After a year, I'm beginning to differentiate carpets from the various Berber tribes in the <b>Khemisset Province</b>, including those from the towns of Khemisset, Rommani, Oulmes, and Tiflet.<br /><br />I am fortunate to have two weekly souks in my site, Mondays and Tuesdays; however, I prefer the Tuesday souk because I know more of the vendors there than at the Monday souk. Tourists, if any, <i>rarely</i> venture into my souks, not sure why as they are great places to meet people and have a remarkable cultural experience.<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/kh-fishsk.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/kh-fishsk.jpg" alt="Weekly Souk Fish Fry" align="none" border="1" height="362" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />One of the vendors I make an effort to stop by is the Fish Fry Tent<sup>2</sup>. These guys know I like to get about eight to ten dirhams worth of fish fry (I think they are mackerels, but not sure) and half a wheel of bread. I sprinkle paprika and salt to taste for a wonderful weekly lunch.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/kh-fishsk2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/kh-fishsk2.jpg" alt="Weekly Souk Fish Fry" align="none" border="1" height="362" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />The fish is dusted in a flour mixture (salt, spices) and then deep-fried.</center><br /><b>AN IMPORTANT NOTE</b>: I've yet to get sick eating at the souk. <i>Let's hope it stays that way</i>.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. States-side these are known as flea markets or farmer's markets.<br />2. There are about six fish fry tents, but I always go to the same one -- per recommendation from the artisans I work with.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156377537636933352006-06-21T11:56:00.000+00:002006-08-24T00:00:10.316+00:00In-Service TrainingA few pictures taken while attending the In-Service Training Conference, June 12-17, Agadir.<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/IST-1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/IST-1.jpg" alt="Agadir, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="268" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />On the beach in Agadir, Morocco<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/IST-2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/IST-2.jpg" alt="Agadir, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="264" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />"God, Country, King" - on the hills overlooking Agadir, Morocco.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/IST-3.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/IST-3.jpg" alt="Boardwalk of Agadir, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="337" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Boardwalk of Agadir, Morocco.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/IST-4.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/IST-4.jpg" alt="Boardwalk of Agadir, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="265" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Boardwalk of Agadir, Morocco.</center><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156438912584603122006-05-15T13:44:00.000+00:002006-08-24T17:01:52.866+00:00Time to Hit the Beach!<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-be1aa.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-be1aa.jpg" alt="Medina of Rabat, Morocco" align="right" border="1" height="150" hspace="0" width="200" /></a>The weather is beginning to warm up, but I hear that some sites in the Middle Atlas are still getting <i><b>snow in May</b></i>! My sympathy goes out to all Volunteers at such sites. It's still cool in my site, but it's perfect beach weather in Rabat. I go on weekends when I "<i>think</i>" it'll get too hot in my site.<br /><br />To get to the beaches in Rabat, I often use the trail that bisects along the medina, meanders through the cemetery and ends at the lighthouse cliff; from here, it's a simple climb down the cliff-face to reach the beach<sup>1</sup>. Though non-Muslims are allowed to enter this cemetary, I keep a low profile when crossing it, i.e. keeping my shirt on, wearing pants, paying respect to mourners, etc.<br /><br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-be1a.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-be1a.jpg" alt="Beach in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="268" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-be1b.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-be1b.jpg" alt="Beach in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="219" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-be1c.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-be1c.jpg" alt="Beach in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="206" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/rb-be1d.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/rb-be1d.jpg" alt="Beach in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="242" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br /></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. I'm sure Peace Corps' Safety & Security Officer would rather I take a more worn route to the beach.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1156504528706669482006-04-01T09:11:00.000+00:002006-08-25T11:15:28.773+00:00Room with a Sunset<center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/hm-sun1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/hm-sun1.jpg" alt="Sunset as seen from the kitchen, Khemisset, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="311" hspace="0" width="450" /></a><br />Finally found an apartment to rent, and it has a <b>great view of the <span style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0);">sunset</span> from the kitchen</b>. The best part: there are many windows for lots of light! More later.<br /></center><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1142852750285361342006-03-20T11:03:00.000+00:002006-03-20T11:05:50.416+00:00Unexpected Dinner GuestWe had an expected dinner guest last week. The (bad) host-brother<sup>1</sup>, made a ruckus upon coming home one afternoon. I've largely ignored his antics, numbed from living with the host-family for the last five months or so. Besides, I was putting the final touches on a few documents in preparation to go to a Marrakech Festival; however, the host-family insisted I come to the stairwell to see what was going on. I was asked to bring my camera.<br /><br />My thought, half whispering, to myself: <i>"Oh great, another relative has stopped by for a visit and they want me to take pictures. I don't have time for this!"</i><br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/kh-owl.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/kh-owl.jpg" alt="Owl" align="right" border="1" height="142" hspace="0" width="200" /></a>I left my work to see what was up and, to my surprise, it was not a visiting relative. The host-brother had brought home an <b>owl</b>. They wanted to know if it was ok to put it in the birdcage I bought a couple of weeks ago. Unless they can manipulate matter on a cosmic scale, that wasn't going to happen. The owl was much larger than the birdcage, almost twice as big; but who knows, maybe it's just the ruffled feathers and, once watered or calmed down, it would be no bigger than a sparrow. Caged or not, it was not going to be a pet for long. The host-family just wanted to keep it somewhere while they went to the <i>swirka</i> [daily outdoor market]. I left for the artisana at this point.<br /><br />It does not take the cunning mind of Sherlock Holmes to figure out what happened next. Seeing owl feathers all over the roof-top, I realized that the owl had, indeed, become the dinner for that evening. We had <b>owl tajine</b><sup>2</sup> that night. If you did not know already, then I'll tell you that owl is gamey and does not taste like chicken at all.<br /><br />Back to preparing promotional materials for the upcoming craft festival.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. By bad, I mean the non-religious host-brother. I have two host-brothers: one is the icon of a koran-toting saint, while the other has tempted me with Meknes-grown wine.<br />2. I'm surprised we had cooked the owl because the host-family is very concerned about bird flu. When I first got here, we had chicken about five times a week, now host-mom cooks chicken about once a week. I can add owl tajine to the Peace Corps cook book.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11032873.post-1141814163700991002006-03-08T10:26:00.000+00:002006-03-15T19:38:44.600+00:00Letter from Ministry of Tourism<a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/work-ltr.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/work-ltr.jpg" alt="Letter from Ministry of Tourism" align="right" border="1" height="200" hspace="0" width="150" /></a>My counterpart<sup>1</sup> recently showed me an official-looking document (notice the rubberstamp on it to signify it is "official") with my name on it, and proceeded to tell me it is from the Ministry of Tourism. Finding an official document with my name on it is interesting enough; but a document written in a language that I cannot read takes on a whole, new level of urgency to get it deciphered ... where is my decoder ring? Peace Corps provides a universal translator decoder ring to every Volunteer<sup>2</sup>.<br /><br />According to the <b>letter from the Ministry of Tourism</b>, I am to draft a document proposing my "2006 plans" on what I expect to do with the cooperatives. This is a case of placing the cart before the horse. How am I supposed to figure out what I plan to do?!? Not only have I been at my site only since December '05, but I do not have the language skills or bigger community-picture to know what needs to be done. So, the next few weeks will be <i>"interesting"</i> as I figure out what goes into the "2006 plan". Personally, I think my counterpart should be doing this. But whatever. I'll whip up something shortly. Unlike many corporate proposals I've done in the past, I can actually write this one out by hand instead of a Powerpoint presentation!<br /><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/aj-rabat1.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/aj-rabat1.jpg" alt="Hanging out in Rabat" align="right" border="1" height="178" hspace="0" width="200" /></a>On a non-work related, slightly-culture related excursion to Rabat last weekend to meet up with <a target="_blank" href="http://www.saraal-jazra.blogspot.com/">Peace Corps Volunteer SAJ</a><sup>3</sup>, we ran around Rabat buying bootleg DVD movies<sup>4</sup>, walking through the medina, looking for the the U.S. Embassy<sup>5</sup> and lunching at Pizza Hut. Below are a few pictures of <b>Tour Hassan</b> and the <b>mausoleum of the late King Mohammed V</b>. I was surprised they allowed (and even encouraged us) to take pictures of the tomb. As SAJ's assigned site is in the South, I will rarely get to see her (or other Volunteers in the South) except on her occasional visits to Rabat for medical check-ups or administrative paperworks.<br /><center><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/aj-rabat4.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/aj-rabat4.jpg" alt="Tour Hassan in, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="300" hspace="0" width="400" /></a><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/aj-rabat2.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/aj-rabat2.jpg" alt="Tour Hassan in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="352" hspace="0" width="400" /></a><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/1024/aj-rabat3.jpg"><img style="border: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); margin: 2px;" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/img/173/3750/400/aj-rabat3.jpg" alt="Tour Hassan Tomb in Rabat, Morocco" align="none" border="1" height="300" hspace="0" width="400" /></a><br /></center><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">1. A counterpart is a community leader (usually, but not always, the president of the artisan cooperative) Peace Corps Volunteers in the Small Business Development sector work with. The term "counterpart" is a bit misleading, because (in talking with other Volunteers) the counterparts usually see themselves as our supervisor and take great pleasure reminding us that we need their permissions to do anything; I am (un)lucky that my counterpart lives in my site/town.<br />2. A universal translator is on my wish list.<br />3. Actual names have been changed/withheld for obvious reasons (re: safety/security).<br />4. I suppose I was shopping for therapy, as I spent half my living allowance for March on DVD movies. Having to extend homestay this long is stressful.<br />5. We were actually looking for the American Club, a membership-only restaurant for American citizens; instead we found various embassies including Peru, France and People's Republic of China.</span><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:78%;">tags: <a target="_blank" rel="tag" href="http://technorati.com/tag/peace+corps">peace corps</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/africa">africa</a>.<a rel="tag" target="_blank" href="http://technorati.com/tag/morocco">morocco</a></span></div>Nam LaMorehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11487807831314281740noreply@blogger.com2